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Hong Kong - August 4 2007
Early Saturday morning. Have been having a great time here over the last day or so. On Thursday evening I tracked down a great Indian curry house for dinner, in the Chungking Mansions - basically a big sprawling building like my own place, but with more shops and rolex / suit salesmen! It was quite a challenge to find the place, but well worth it. I had chicken korma which was great, but the onion bhajis came with tomato ketchup - something I never saw in Bradford, or anywhere else for that matter!
I got up early yesterday with a plan to do part of Hong Kong island and then one of the outlying islands - I want to keep things in reserve for my time on Sunday before the plane. In the morning I checked out the area around Central, in the business district of the island. There, practically submerged by the skyscrapers, is the Legislative Council, or Legco, which I learnt had been the supreme court up to the mid 1980's before it was given its current role.
I wasn't sure if the institution had existed some place before or not - or whether the limited democratic franchise was indeed that new. Walking around that part of town is a bizarre experience for a Brit, there are a mixture of influences from home - street markings, signs, flower boxes, street lights and, worst of all, some terrible examples of 1960s UK architecture, all alongside very futuristic skyscrapers! I spent an hour or so navigating the busy streets before I twigged one had to use the walkways between buildings - practically Blade Runner like! Well, with an active imagination!I then moved up to the Peak, taking the tram up the hill!
This was fantastic, you really do go up at quite an angle, practically vertical at one stage! At the top, the views were simply outstanding. My guidebook said there was an increasing smog problem in the summer, but yesterday it was clear and blue!
The blot on the landscape up there is the futuristic 1960s viewing tower they plonked on the summit, full of souvenirs and tat, but I found a terrace bar nearby and enjoyed an expensive and small beer taking in the view!
From there I decided to walk down from the peak, which was well worth doing for the greenery with the city nestling in the background.
Back at sea level, I took a ferry out to the island of Lamma: this is the closest island to Hong Kong island and was apparently the destination of choice for many expats in the 1980s.

I took a boat to Yung Shue Wan, enjoying the views of the harbour and the hectic activity onshore on the way, where I decided to walk across to the other port on the island, Sok Kwu Wan, to get the ferry back. Before setting off on this long trek, a good lunch looking out across the small port - curry again! The walk was very good, though hot - fortunately there was a lovely small beach halfway along where I had a pit-stop and debated the pros and cons of paddling in the sea given that there was a big power station just round the corner! I paddled of course, and noted that the boons were there to keep the sharks out!

Back to Hong Kong island at dusk, which is one of the best times to take it in - the lights are something else and you really have an idea of the density of the place!
I met up with a friend, Annette for dinner. I had met her in Brussels as she is a friend of my friends Stephen and Laura, but she is now back in Hong Kong. We had a great dinner, sampling some of the local specialities, including goose. All very good, though I must admit I shied away from the fermented egg! After dinner Annette showed me the elevator walkway - basically an elevator from the business district going up the hill to the so-called mid-level residential area: the one escaltor goes down in the morning and up in the evening to tie in with rush hours (more and more like Blade Runner)! It was meant to reduce traffic congestion, but it has had limited impact because the middle classes shun travelling with the plebs! After the exertions of walking back down, we took a beer with Eugenie, one of her friends and then I caught a bus home.
Today, the plan is Macau, lots of gambling to be done! I should get a move on as I am told the ferry can be over-subscribed on weekends and I didn't make a pre-reservation! Fingers crossed.
More to follow!
Rob
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