Yangshuo - July 27 2007

The penultimate leg of my journey: Yangshuo and the Cantonese cooking. I know some of you have been looking forward to me perfecting my cooking skills, but let's not put too much store by 2 days. There is only so much they can do to change the habits of a 33 year old life-time!

So, a recap. I arrived late this afternoon after a long (23 hour), but fun trip from Shanghai.

I caught the train yesterday afternoon. After the experience with the group and then with Olivia, I soon realised this was something a little different. Not only was I on my tod (alone), but also this train was particularly Chinese - I swear I did not see another Western / European on route! All good fun though. My compartment travellers turned out to be from Kumming (West of here, not far (in global terms) from Tibet), but were professors of mechanical and chemical engineering at Shanghai University. To get this far in the conversation in a mixture of pigeon English and pigeon pinyin took a good long while I can tell you! Thanks to Gerry and Louise for providing the English tea which helped me through the exercise!


After that hurdle, I decided I needed another and went off to look for the restaurant car. Quite an experience, since I walked the wrong way down the train and discovered what I guess you could term "the Chinese chav" area (for the uninitiated on the term chav I can recommend books...). It was serious hell and made me be thankful for the relative calm of two middle age professors.

Walking the right way second time round, I came across the resto car - completely full of train officials and police. Cue the standard "what the hell are you / I doing here" before a kindly xiaojie (waitress) enquired as to my order - beer, mais bien sur). I decided to economise on the food (partly because of a certain influence, you-know-who-you-are :) and partly because of resto car paranoia) and headed back for my pot noodles a la Chinoise.

Rest of the trip was uneventful, slept well, read the Long March (felt like I was nearly on the bloody thing) and finally we arrived in Guilin - gateway to Yangshuo!!


Guilin. Initial impressions dubious, partly because I had to haggle for a taxi (you'll be impressed to learn I shaved 50 Euro cents off the price - again you-know-who-you-are!) But the ride through the town impressed me and confirmed me plan to spend next Wednesday there exploring before heading down to Shenzhen on the night train. Arriving at the main train station, more haggling was due (feeling quite a pro these days...). The cheeky so-and-so asked for 40 Yuan, but I referred to him the asking price of 15 and was dutifully let on board.

There ensued a two hour bus journey to Yangshuo, through what can only be described as wonderful landscape. I feel very lucky to have seen some great places and landscapes in this trip, and here was another. In contrast to the north, the mountains and the grasslands, here was grass green, luscious fields, with an array of crops - rice, maize and god knows what, all tended by local Chinese in those cool hats you think you only see in films!! !
Enjoying the countryside, one's attention was also caught by the road as our driver attempted to prove he was the man on the highway, overtaking in a series of outlandish moves...

But here I am. Yangshuo. Arrived - in one piece.

Negotiated the hagglers at the bus station (i.e. "where you stay?" "Magnolia Hotel" "ah good, I am manager" "oh really?..." .... sigh). Checked in and went out to eat. The landscape as described above is wonderful. Lots of karsts (I think - I checked in the guide, essentially big molehill like mountains) dotted around the town, and a lovely big river. Very touristy though, but I am a tourist! I thought I should avoid the delights of Italian, French and English (yes even that!) cuisine and check out Chinese since I have the habit. Bad move - for the first time here I had the impression I was being overcharged compared to the Chinese in the joint - the place was jam-packed, though for the meagre rations I got I was left disappointed. Giving in to the lure of the bright western lights, I moved on to a joint doing Mexican nachos, beer and a Beatles album on loop (I left at the second hearing of Let it Be!).

The key to the town it would appear are to visit the nearest big molehill and park (tomorrow plans), learn Cantonese cooking (Sunday and Monday), take a bamboo raft down the river (Monday) and bike around the local countryside (Tuesday). A hectic schedule as ever ;)

But some time for more postcard writing - should I have forgotten anyone, then by all means request at robin.jezek@brutele.be (include snail address)... Those who have received already will no doubt do again :)

More to follow :)

Rob