Yangshuo - July 29 2007

This is my third attempt at a blog update, the other two having failed yesterday evening due to power cuts just at just the wrong time!! Touch wood this morning will be different. Yesterday was my first full day here and indeed my only complete free one. The town itself is very touristy and I decided to check out some of the countryside by "climbing" one of the karst limestone hills to get a better view.

To get to the path to the karst, my faithful friend the guidebook indicated it was behind the local market.

Eventually finding the market, I took some time out to go and explore - and what an experience it was! The first impression was the pungent mix of smells, a mixture of dead and alive animals, herbs and fresh vegetables! Turn away now if you're faint hearted or vegetarian - or both! :)

The first part I came to was the meat chopping section - on an industrial scale! Meat cleavers all around and huge pieces of meat scattered on the tables.

The most amusing image was that of a chap completely out for the count surrounded by the meat he himself had presumably just chopped. I wanted to take a photo but suspected he might awaken and take his cleaver to me instead...!

Moving swiftly on I found the relative calm of the vegetable section, but was soon in the fish part - which was fine as they were alive and not smelling (something I hate), but around a corner I came across a young boy selling bags of huge frogs! I think he thought he had come across a willing buyer, but I declined the offer! Further on, a little dalliance with potential avian flu was in store as hundreds of poultry in cages awaited their fate! Again, moving swiftly on I identified the exit and the route to the mountain - and here came the biggest challenge!

Think of a cross between Indiana Jones Part 1 and a horror film along the lines of Nightmare on Elm Street! A chap was sitting cross-legged on the floor hacking at some unidentified animal and then taking a blow-torch to the remains at short intervals! An eye-ball stared forlornly out from the remains - run! - I thought! Past the gutted animal (maybe dog?) hanging from the rafters and finally out into fresh air!

Escaped the market! Hurrah - until I realised a market visit was on the itinerary of the cooking school...I do feel fortunate :) I read in the guide later that days ending in 9 are special market days, so god only knows what this afternoon might have in store!

Alongside the market, climbing the mountain was all relatively straightforward.

There were no other tourists and I shared the route with local workers carrying cement and sand bags up to their construction site at the top!!

The views were magnificent, the karst limestone hills stretch out into the distance as far as you can see, with the River Li meandering between them.

I spent a good hour taking in the views from the top, and taking loads of pics!



Back to the town, I relaxed and enjoyed the delights of a late afternoon BLT and beer, before getting back on the Chinese route from dinner with a Sichuan Hot - I tried hard not to think of the market :)

Today the cooking class kicks off and continues tomorrow morning. Wish me luck with the markets :)

More to follow.

Rob